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What’s the deal with platinum rings?

Platinum, when used for jewelry, is not karated (alloyed with other metals) like gold products. Gold is mixed heavily (up to 58% with other metals) with other metals to create workable jewelry, while platinum is used in a much more pure state.

Pure platinum is slightly difficult to cast and can produce poor surface quality and micro pitting. To cast engagement rings from platinum, we have discovered that mixing it 95% pure and 5% cobalt makes casting way easier and produces a smooth and dense product. I strictly use Platinum/cobalt .950/.050 mixture for all my cast wedding and engagement rings.

Platinum is an ideal metal for holding diamonds and precious gems. It is one of the most dense metals and wears extremely well. In fact, when looking under a microscope, you will see that a scratch in platinum only pushes the metal over. A scratch will not usually remove any metal at all!. Other precious metals, like silver and gold, will scratch and actual particles will be torn from the surface, causing wear. This property of platinum makes it very desirable for prongs and bezels. Even though they will get scratched and worn, the platinum will endure and last way longer than its gold and silver counterparts.

Another desirable characteristic of .950 platinum is it is “dead soft”. This means the metal has no “memory” or spring. If the metal is bent, it will not resist. This is an important jewelry trait because as I push the metal over the diamonds/gems (to keep them in place in the setting) it will not try to spring back. As you can imagine, diamonds are hard and brittle, so if the metal has to be pushed too hard, the gem will break! Platinum requires very little pressure and once it is folded over the stone, it holds it position tightly.

Platinum does not oxidize, rust or tarnish. There is a myth out there (or perhaps just a misuse of terminology) that says that platinum patinas. The true definition of “patina” is the surface discolouration due to oxidization. Platinum does not develop a patina. What is does do is develop a grey matte finish over time. This is caused by microscopic scratches. Because platinum is soft, it does scratch easily. But even though it scratches easily, it does not wear out easily. Many people prize the matte look of platinum, while others don’t like it and are continuously getting their platinum jewelry polished.

My suggestion is, if you like the matte look of platinum, then it is definitely the best option. But if it is shiny white metal you want, then look to X-1 white gold.

This all being said, if you contact me, we can go over any questions you may have and I can make personal recommendations so suit your needs.